Arrived Fatu Hiva

PSSST, want buy some fruit???

Yesterday,  whilst wandering round the village Simon and Sally were accosted by a man in an old pick up truck, he basically said, but in French,  "psssst, would you like to buy some fruit", well, a little fruit is always useful so they climbed aboard and off they went to the fruit farm.

The first Heather and I knew about it was the dingy arriving back at Shimshal,  almost full of fruit, with Simon hanging on trying to keep it all in. Sally had been left ashore as there wasn't enough room for her. 

So now we have 20+ huge  mangoes,  a dozen pamplemouse, scores of lemons and bunches of banana.  No scurvey on shimshal from now on.

Tim

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To the Cross

Vaiatu

Moving on and manta rays

We left the crowded and rolling anchorage of Hiva Oa and moved south, not very far, only about 8 miles, we motored as there was little wind and to put a good charge of amps into the batteries. Out destination was a bay on the west side of the island of Tahuata.  It was deep and sheltered, no Pacific swells rolling in to disturb our sleep,  the head of the bay was a white sand beach, fringed with coconut palms.  As we slowly entered the bay we noticed a flight of manta rays slowly heading out, they passed either side of us, huge and silent. The bay is a favourite amongst crusers, who seem to spend their time recovering after a long crossing and the hectic anchorage of Hiva oa.

After all our Galapagos diving adventures the only big pelagic creature I realy wanted to see were Manta rays,  this bay was known as a place to find them and our entrance sighting was a good start.

Each morning of our stay here Heather and I would get up at first light and snorkle off the back of the boat, we would slowly drift out of the bay into deeper water all the time scanning below for Mantas, we would then cross to the edge of the bay and swim back in along the cliff looking at the fish life and the odd turtle which happened to be passing by. Twice in the 4 days we swam we were rewarded with a manta ray, slowly circling below us, mouth wide open to filter the small marine creatures which make up its diet,  the mantas were probably 3m across but at no time did we feel threatened,  they swim so gently,  not seeming to need any effort to move, yet easily leaving us behind. On both occasions we followed until we were left behind,  the ray drifting off into the gloom.

Our morning snorkeling expeditions generally took about 90 minutes,  we would return for tea and breakfast,  the sun now well up and temperatures rising. 

We did have work to do, some small repairs after 3 weeks at sea, nothing serious and easily done on a steady platform,  the big job was the state of poor old Shimshals hull. Despite fresh antifouling in Panama,  a hull scrub in Galapagos we had a significant build up of weed and a black stain on the gell coat above the waterline. Below the waterline and on the copper coat were the remains of a healthy crop of goose necked barnicals,  the bulk of the barnical dropped off a couple of days after anchoring, they need the flow of moving water to feed apparently but each one left behind a small chalky pad, its own small anchor. So, over the next few days, a couple of hours at a time, we all scrubbed,  scraped,  rubbed and at times scratched at the hull. Every boat in the anchorage was similarly occupied and strains of "never seen it this bad before ", echoed round the anchorage. 

Eventually after some days of hard work Shimshal is once again presentable. The final remaining goose necked barnical remains will have to wait for haul out and a tickling with an industrial pressure washer. 

The rest of our time was spent at leasure, Heather and I have been able to get back to our swimming managing to get a few km in each day . It is a viable way to visit other boats here, the water is clear and warm, it is however difficult it take anything with you. We did have comments from other boats as to the amount of time we spent in the water. 

It was also a sociable time  several of the other boats were known to us and new boats are always interesting to chat with, we had new friends drop by for coffee,  delivered fresh scones to one boat, towed behind a swimmer wrapped in zip lock bags and a dry bag and one evening hosted 22 on board for drinks and nibbles.  Everyone brings their own drinks and contributions to the nibble pile so not to depleat boat stores too much. Shimshal was well down on her lines that evening and there was not much mingling space but great fun. On our final night there we cooked supper for a couple Shimshal first met way back in the Atlantic waters off America. 

We swam to the beach and wandered its golden sands, we couldn't go much further as there is basically jungle behind the beach and no paths. Each evening we sat in the cockpit and watched the sun set. No green flash yet but maybe one day.

Yesterday we decided we should move on, not far, just a few miles along the coast , this time to a bay with the islands settlement.  We arrived in the afternoon into a tricky anchorage,  the weather has become a bit windy and there are strong gusts coming off the hills behind the bay.

Yesterday evening we got ashore for a wander and found a little shack on the waterfront who was cooking that evening so ate well. This morning it is still very gusty and Shimshal is tugging and pulling at her anchorage,  we have just watched a pod of dolphin hunting in the bay whilst we had breakfast and aim to get ashore again for a better exploration and a walk.

Tim

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Shimshal, Matilda and Enki in the Marquesas from Ruffian

Shimshal, Matilda and Enki in the Marquesas from Ruffian

Another OCC gathering

Jamie amd Sunyoung arrove in their nesting tender

Matilda and Enki

Ruffian

Dué

Pacific Wind

Photos

Tim

Why don’t our legs want to work?

A few days ago we arrived at the Marquesas islands after 3 weeks at sea. We headed for the island of Hiva Oa and anchored in Atuona Bay. We had little choice where our first land fall was as, like when you arrive in a new country by plane,  you have to pass through immigration, there are only 2 places this can happen. So, that afternoon,  we went ashore and walked the 2 or 3 km into town to present our passports and the ships papers to the local Gendarmerie. It was admittedly rather hot but 3km should not realy be an issue,  we all felt we had walked for miles though. 

Immigration proved easy once we had actually managed to get into the building,  we had all the correct information and delt with a very friendly Gendarme. After a quick visit to the shop we headed back, feeling as if we had worked hard all day.  I suppose sitting still for 3 weeks has that affect on your legs.

The sailing community are a friendly bunch,  we were lucky to have arrived on a Friday when there was a pop up restaurant on the quayside. After cooking from tins for a while the draw of steak frits with a group of people who we last saw in Galapagos and had all completed the same passage was to much so we gave in. A very pleasant evening with huge portions of food and friendly people was enjoyed by all.

The following day we spent just wandering the local town, we sat and drank fruit juice and coffee with a couple from another boat and watched the world go by. They mentioned that they were planning a hike the next day to a beach and invited us to join them. It was only 5 km each way, how hard could it be?!!.

We packed a very sad lunch, none of the shops were open so it was chewie bars and dried fruit,  carried 5 litres of water between the 2 of us and put shoes on for the first time in ages. 

The trail was beautiful,  high above the sea round headlands with views in every direction,  our legs decided they did remember how to walk but only slowly,  we put that down to the 32 degrees temperature and the steep slopes.  The beach,  when we first saw it as we rounded a corner, was out of this world, clear blue waters,  white sands backed by coconut palms. Every inch a tropical paradise.  We swam, sat in the shade of the palms,  swam some more and finally, reluctantly set out to walk back. We decided 10 km was enough for one day. On the way back we stopped of at the only open hotel we could find, here they served a cold beer with stunning views , the perfect way to end a good day out. Even the legs forgave us.

After 3 days of eating ashore,  different company and exploring we are moveing on. The anchorage was, unfortunately very open to the Pacific swells and so poor old Shimshal was rolling mightily each night, using the dingy was an adventure in its self and the nights were far from peacefully.  We have gone in search of calm, sheltered bays and smooth, still nights. 

Tim

Heather’s Pacific Crossing video

Heather’s Pacific Crossing video

The delights of Hiva Oa